Protecting Deck Finish During Wet Exit Practice

[ScottF]

I was out practicing wet exits today with a paddle float and noticed the finish on the stern had taken a beating from the paddle scraping it. Any suggestions on how to protect the deck from the paddle and pfd during re-entry??

[gasserra]

I'm not trying to make light of your concern--if you have a new boat and you have some consideration of ever selling it, it is true that you can get more for it if it looks newer.

On the other hand--there is not a good way to prevent a boat from signs of use if you are really using it. I've found that the best answer is to buy a used boat that is structurally sound but has already acquired a few cosmetic blemishes. Fiberglass boats are very tough and hold up well over the years, and can be repaired if they suffer structural damage.

For example--I bought a used Pintail 14 years ago for $1500 (back then, new ones were a little over $2000), have used it extensively for my own training and for coaching others, including countless rescue drills, including training in rock gardens, surf, etc. You can tell it's been used, but it's still solid and I trust it in the most severe conditions. A new Pintail goes for about $3500. I could get somewhere around $1200 for mine if I wanted to sell it (I don't), which is pretty typical for the kind of used capable fiberglass boat I'm discussing.

So... the best strategy, if you are going to use your boat hard, is to buy a used one in sound condition and not worry about it. For greater economy, find a used plastic one for $500-$600 and use that for the rougher stuff.

Bob

[digger]

I was out practicing wet exits today with a paddle float and noticed the finish on the stern had taken a beating from the paddle scraping it. Any suggestions on how to protect the deck from the paddle and pfd during re-entry??

If it really bothers you to scrape up your kayak, you can do what this guy did:

http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/7416 ... G?start=12

I think that it can make sense for areas where you are constantly scraping. I scratch my deck at the bow when I stow my greenland paddle, so I might give this a try for that small area, but I think that if you put too much of this stuff down it will impact the look of the boat.

Paul

[ScottF]

Your advice makes sense. I know I'm being a bit of a sissy. This is my first kayak and it's a Hurricane Tampico 140 made of something called Trylon. The finish is even higher gloss than most fiberglass or kevlar boats I've seen. It's so slick looking I hate to screw it up! On the other hand, I want to become seaworthy asap and need to practice all manner of rescues. One thing I have noticed about rescues is that your ability to do them effectively varies from boat to boat. For example, I had trouble re-entering a Necky Manitou 140 due to it's higher deck. It's also a heavier boat to flip and allow minimal water in the cockpit. My Tampico 140 is very low profile and easy to slip onto. It's also light at 43 lbs. and easy to flip. So maybe having a used rotomold boat is the solution. If you practice with a boat that is actually tougher to re-enter than your regular boat, you're better trained. Thanks.

[Rich Stevens]

I'd advise against the non-slip material on the aft deck. Several people over the years have said that it can make rescues difficult because it tends to grab the PFD material when you are trying to climb out of the water, which some people find difficult enough already. I suppose that using it on the foredeck wouldn't be a problem though.

I've been lucky to pick a boat where I have no interest in selling or replacing it anytime in the future, unless I irreparably destroy it. I tend to take the view that it's a boat and meant to be used, not a piece of fine furniture. Of course, I'm fashion impaired. In buying a used boat, I'd be more concerned with basic soundness as opposed to cosmetic issues, and would tend to resist paying significantly more if based solely on appearance.

[WLWoodruff]

Go down to your local K-mart and get a roll of clear Contact Paper. (It's not really "paper", it's the sticky-back plastic stuff on a roll that is used to cover the inside of drawers and kitchen shelves.) Cut a piece to size, stick it on the area you want to protect, and you're in business. It comes off easily, and leaves almost no residue. If you put it on carefully, and smooth out any wrinkles and/or bubbles, it will be pretty nearly invisible. I use this stuff on all of my boats to protect the paddle strike area, and it works like a champ.

And while I recommend the clear Contact Paper because of the way it disappears on a smooth surface, they also make the stuff in a variety of solid colors and prints. It's all the same stuff, so if you want a cute little daisy design all over the areas you are trying to protect, you're in business.

[ScottF]

All good suggestions. I'm liking the idea of tape or contact paper. I took a lesson from Brian B. last weekend and his Epic had clear tape protecting the heavy wear areas. Brian is also a proponent of 'the kayak is a tool' school of thought like Rich. I'm sure after a year or two, the deck finish will diminish in importance like it does with a new car. Can't remember the last time I washed my 2005 VW Toureag.

I'm a new CPA member and looking forward to meeting all of you who share my new passion.

[Brian B]

Scott is right, I have clear duct tape over the places where I strike with a paddle, and where my water bottle goes.

I guess if I'm using it on the water, perhaps I should call it "duck" tape!